LUNCH REVIEW
$3 Dewey's pub grub has homemade touch
[GO Entertainment Weekly 4/28/05]
Maine seems to have developed the identify of being a land of microbreweries, and a place full of pubs that serve their suds. Many of these ale houses are synonymous with decent pub fare. But in the case of $3 Deweys on Commercial Street, you get quite a bit more with your pint. The establishment that is billed as "Portland's Original Ale House" started on Fore Street 25 years ago, and moved to Commercial Street about nine years ago, says Betsy Leslie at Dewey's. The current location gives Dewey's that long-ago, seaside Irish pub feel. The exposed, thick ceiling beams, brick walls, wood floors, basic benches, and popcorn littered floor give the pub in a casual atmosphere, but the food here is far from thrown-together. We tried the turkey club ($6.95), the BLT ($5.75), the chicken teriyaki rollup ($6.95), the clam chowder ($3.95 a cup), plus the brownie sundae. Each was satisfying, but the last three were excellent. The chowder tasted thick, fresh, creamy and, yet light. The fresh chicken is from local South Portland butcher Smaha's Legion Square Market, and the pineapple salsa the rollup was smothered in was delicious. These are just two examples of the homemade touches of chef Adam Powers. Dewey's soups, beer-based chilis, and salad dressings are all homemade, Powers said. Leslie said the chili ($4.50/$6.50) has always been a menu staple. Powers lived in southeast Asia and has a mother in Georgia, so he brings in both authentic Asian and Southern influences into his menu items. The eatery sells a lot of falafel ($5.95) with a grilled chickpea sesame patty rolled in a tortilla with spinach and feta-garlic dressing; as well as the popular Cajun chicken rollup with smoked Gouda cheese ($7.95). The menu at Dewey's is extensive, but, in many cases, it's the small details here that are done right. The fries are hand cut, the coffee comes with a separate glass of milk; and the hot chocolate ($1.75) – according to one discerning 10-year-old's pallet – is delicious. The pub overall has become known for its family-friendly style. "We do have a lot of space, which seems to work. A lot of the customers are from the old Deweys, and they now all have kids. We have a kids menu. We have coloring place mats, too," Leslie said. "They can still have a family and have a beer while they have their chili." Of course, when it's all said and done, $3 Dewey's is a pub, the extensive beer list being proof. This means the atmosphere is relaxing and casual. We're talking self seating, paper napkins and reading material in a magazine rack. If that's your style, you'll love it. The Irish pub-style wooden benches provide a full-window view of Commercial Street, but you can opt for the more comfortable high-backed booths in the back. While there were a dozen or more eating before the noon hour, Dewey's connecting two rooms were spacious enough, we felt a quite sense of privacy. And the reasonably priced lunch proved reliable. We'll be back to try the chili, Cajun veggie burger ($6.95); or the pizza ($6.95, plus 75 cents a topping). Except next time, we'll sample these at the end of the workday, enjoying them as they're meant to be eaten at Dewey's: with a cold Guinness ($3.75) on the side. The Features staff of the Portland Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram anonymously samples meals for under $6.